Bordeaux’s out to attract a younger set – The Washington Post

Bordeaux’s out to attract a younger set

By Dave McIntyre, Published: January 21

The first of a two-part series on efforts to attract a younger American audience to the wines of Bordeaux, France.

The SoHo flat is filled with Bordeaux royalty. Chateau names such as Talbot, Palmer, Mouton Rothschild, Cos d’Estournel, Pontet-Canet and others are represented in pinstripes and cuff links, as servers freely offer generous glasses of wines that cost in the triple digits. It takes a small army to decant a six-liter imperial of Chateau d’Issan 2005, a grand cru classé from Margaux, on Bordeaux’s left bank.

Only the host looks out of place. Dressed in a sweater and jeans, with blond highlights in his shoulder-length brown hair, Jean Moueix strikes a much younger, more relaxed pose than his counterparts. Bordeaux isn’t just buttoned-down luxury, his manner seems to say. It’s also fun.

The chateau owners and directors are in Manhattan this chilly late-fall evening for Wine Spectator magazine’s New York Wine Experience, a three-day bacchanal that offers wine lovers “a unique opportunity to taste the world’s greatest wines.” Moueix is celebrating the New York debut of his company, La Vinicole, as part of an effort to boost Bordeaux’s image and representation on restaurant wine lists in the Big Apple.

Moueix (pronounced mwex) is firmly entrenched among Bordeaux’s elite. At age 27, he is the chief officer of the family firm Duclot, a negociant house that buys wine from more than 500 chateaux in Bordeaux and sells them through various channels in more than 70 countries. The family also owns the famed Pomerol producer Petrus. La Vinicole, a wholesale division of Duclot, was founded a half-century ago to sell wine wholesale to restaurants.

Published photos of Moueix from just a few years ago show him with the clean-cut, tailored look typical of Bordeaux. His new devil-may-care image — along with his efforts to make Bordeaux accessible at reasonable prices in Paris restaurants — earned him a 2013 “coup de coeur” from the French wine magazine La Revue du Vin de France.

Bordeaux has a tarnished image in the United States. The industry fixated on the glitz and glamour of high point scores and even higher prices, a pursuit the wine media happily encouraged. In recent years, as prices soared and American consumers yawned, the Bordelais chased the seemingly boundless Chinese market and neglected the United States. Moueix is determined to reverse that neglect.

“When I visited New York a few years ago, I saw very little Bordeaux on the wine lists,” Moueix says. “So we decided to bring La Vinicole to New York in order to put Bordeaux back in the city’s restaurants.” The company will use the SoHo office apartment as an education center for New York sommeliers. After focusing on New York for the next year or two, La Vinicole might target other cities, such as Washington, he adds.

La Vinicole has stockpiled 24,000 bottles of various vintages and prices in a New Jersey warehouse and has access to 9 million more back in Bordeaux, sourced directly from the chateaux. “Provenance is a key selling point for La Vinicole,” says Philippe Newlin, director of the three-person New York office.

Chris Adams, chief officer of Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits, a major Manhattan retailer and dealer in Bordeaux futures, underscores the need for a youth movement in selling Bordeaux to U.S. consumers.

“We’ve locked up the 70- and 80-year-olds,” he tells me during the fall reception. “We need to convince the younger generation to drink Bordeaux.”

“Bordeaux forgot to speak to one or two generations of sommeliers in the United States, and naturally the share of Bordeaux wines in restaurants dropped dramatically,” says Aymeric de Gironde, director general of Chateau Cos d’Estournel and, at 41, himself one of the youngest chateaux principals in Bordeaux.

“Bordeaux comes across as rigid, stodgy and unaffordable,” says Keri Levens, wine director for New York’s Little Wisco restaurant group, which includes Montmartre, with an all-French wine list. “The Loire Valley is like Brooklyn, and Bordeaux is like the Upper East Side,” Levens explains. “Brooklyn — the Loire — is cool, young, edgy and affordable. The wines may be a little funky, and even dirty, but have a lot of character and integrity. The Upper East Side — Bordeaux — is classic, older and astronomically expensive. But if you spend some time looking around, you can find a rent-controlled apartment.”

Levens recently took 10 staff members, all in their 20s, to a Bordeaux class at La Vinicole. She called the experience “eye-opening” for those accustomed to powerful California cabernets. “What shocked the staff most was that the wines were beautifully interwoven and integrated, with a lightness on the palate,” she writes in an e-mail. “Just what cabernet should be.”

And just what Jean Moueix would like to hear.

McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. On Twitter: @dmwine.

More from Food: Wine 5 bottles to try, from $10 to $23

via Bordeaux’s out to attract a younger set – The Washington Post.

Phil Collins is ready to return to songwriting (The Washington Post Sunday, Dec 8 2013, Page2)


Phil Collins is ready to return to songwriting
by Laura Wides- Munoz
The Washington Post Sunday
Dec 8 2013

Phil Collins, the former Genesis drummer whose earnest ballads made him a star in the 1980s, is penning songs again. Although he dreads the idea of extended touring because it would take him away from his five children, Collins says he has missed the…read more…

My Journal – Shared Article

The Wall Street Journal Online - My Online Journal
November 05, 2013 — 8:17 AM, EST Go to The Wall Street Journal Online >>
Patrick Browne has added a new article to the following Save & Share collection:
post
Health and Wellness

The ‘Gutbliss’ Regimen to Reducing Digestive Distress 11/4 Inline
The body’s internal plumbing can be the source of considerable malfunction and misery, yet it is a tough subject to broach, even with a doctor. Gastroenterologist Robynne Chutkan, founder of the Digestive Center for Women in Chevy Chase, Md., dispenses with the stigma and offers some useful advice on restoring balance and harmony to distressed digestive tracts.

Collection owner: pmb2811

advertisement
myjournal;sz=300x100;ord=4053286810161518

WSJ.com subscribers may access this article at any time. Nonsubscribers must view it within seven days.
FOR FURTHER ASSISTANCE, please contact Customer Service at 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625) between the hours of 7 am – 10 pm Monday – Friday ET and 8 am – 3 pm Saturday ET or e-mail onlinejournal. Please do not reply to this email directly.

My Journal – Shared Article

The Wall Street Journal Online - My Online Journal
September 03, 2013 — 8:01 AM, EST Go to The Wall Street Journal Online >>
Patrick Browne has added a new article to the following Save & Share collection:
post
Business

Vimeo Teams Up With Film Festival 9/3
Independent filmmakers unveiling their movies at the Toronto International Film Festival will have a new option to get their films seen by audiences: Vimeo on Demand.

Collection owner: pmb2811

advertisement
myjournal;sz=300x100;ord=3998845217472475

WSJ.com subscribers may access this article at any time. Nonsubscribers must view it within seven days.
FOR FURTHER ASSISTANCE, please contact Customer Service at 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625) between the hours of 7 am – 10 pm Monday – Friday ET and 8 am – 3 pm Saturday ET or e-mail onlinejournal. Please do not reply to this email directly.

My Journal – Shared Article

The Wall Street Journal Online - My Online Journal
September 03, 2013 — 7:58 AM, EST Go to The Wall Street Journal Online >>
Patrick Browne has added a new article to the following Save & Share collection:
post
Health and Wellness

Underwater Scan Finds Significant Heart Changes in Divers 9/2 Inline
An underwater ultrasound scan of scuba divers’ hearts found significant changes in cardiac function during and after a dive, according to a small study in the journal Acta Physiologica. The test could be used to identify novice scuba divers with undetected heart disease or cardiac abnormalities that might prove fatal during a dive, researchers said.

Collection owner: pmb2811

advertisement
myjournal;sz=300x100;ord=3998843414869365

WSJ.com subscribers may access this article at any time. Nonsubscribers must view it within seven days.
FOR FURTHER ASSISTANCE, please contact Customer Service at 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625) between the hours of 7 am – 10 pm Monday – Friday ET and 8 am – 3 pm Saturday ET or e-mail onlinejournal. Please do not reply to this email directly.

My Journal – Shared Article

The Wall Street Journal Online - My Online Journal
August 27, 2013 — 7:24 AM, EST Go to The Wall Street Journal Online >>
Patrick Browne has added a new article to the following Save & Share collection:
post
Opinion

Juan Williams: Songs of the Summer of 1963 . . . and 2013 8/26 Inline
Fifty years after the March on Washington, mystical memories of that seminal moment in the civil-rights era are less likely to focus on movement politics than on the great poetry and great music.

Collection owner: pmb2811

advertisement
myjournal;sz=300x100;ord=3992774964921079

WSJ.com subscribers may access this article at any time. Nonsubscribers must view it within seven days.
FOR FURTHER ASSISTANCE, please contact Customer Service at 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625) between the hours of 7 am – 10 pm Monday – Friday ET and 8 am – 3 pm Saturday ET or e-mail onlinejournal. Please do not reply to this email directly.